Many trekkers meet Thakali food for the first time in the mountains, not in Kathmandu. The Annapurna Circuit and the Jomsom trek run straight through the Thak Khola valley, the home of the Thakali people.
A valley of lodges and kitchens
Villages like Tukuche, Marpha, Kobang and Jomsom sit along the Kali Gandaki river. For centuries this was a trading corridor between Tibet and the lowlands, and Thakali families ran the inns where traders rested. Cooking for hungry travellers is an old skill here.
Many teahouses along the route are still run by Thakali families, and their dal bhat is often the best meal of the trek.
Why trekkers swear by dal bhat
There is a saying on the trails: "dal bhat power, 24 hour". It is a joke, but it is also true.
- Rice and lentils give steady energy for long days.
- Refills mean you can eat as much as you need.
- Vegetables and pickles add variety and salt after a long walk.
- It is cooked fresh, which matters for avoiding stomach trouble at altitude.
Mountain foods to look out for
Buckwheat
Buckwheat grows well in Mustang. Look for buckwheat dhido, pancakes and fried buckwheat snacks.
Apples from Marpha
Marpha is famous for its orchards. Apple pie, dried apples and apple drinks are popular with trekkers passing through.
Dried meat
Sukuti, or dried meat, is part of mountain cooking. In autumn, look out for chyangra, the mountain goat.
After the trek: Thakali food in Kathmandu
Plenty of trekkers come back to Kathmandu missing the meals they had on the trail. If that is you, a Thakali set in Thamel is the closest thing. Thulo Thakali serves the same style of food, with rice, dal and vegetables refilled, and a dhido set if you want the full mountain experience.
We are an easy walk from most Thamel hotels. If you are back with your trekking group, book a table and we will seat you together.
