Winter Warmers in Kathmandu: Thukpa, Jhol Momo and Hot Dal
November evenings in Kathmandu turn cold quickly. These are the dishes that keep the city warm.
Read the articleGuides and stories about Thakali food, Nepali cuisine, Himalayan ingredients and eating well in Thamel.
November evenings in Kathmandu turn cold quickly. These are the dishes that keep the city warm.
Read the articleAbout two kilometres of temples, bazaars and courtyards, best done in the late afternoon so you arrive in Thamel hungry.
Long menus can be intimidating. Here is a simple way to order at any Thakali restaurant, step by step.
On many Nepali menus there are two chicken options at two prices. Here is what the extra rupees get you.
Thamel is more than backpacker cafés. With a little walking, it is a great base for a day of Nepali food.
One comes from the mountains of Mustang, the other from the old towns of the Kathmandu Valley. Both are worth a dedicated meal.
Long before nutrition labels, Thakali cooks were building plates with a bit of everything. Here is how the parts work together.
Rice in the middle, small bowls around the edge and someone coming back with more dal. Here is what a Nepali thali is and how to enjoy one.
Most people know momo as a savoury snack. Fill them with sweetened milk solids and they become dessert.
Oil lamps on every step, marigold garlands and the smell of sel roti frying. Here is what Nepal eats during Tihar.
Before business, after a meal, on a cold morning or a rainy afternoon, there is always time for chiya.
Potatoes grown in the cold, dry fields of Mustang have a reputation all over Nepal. Here is why, and how we cook them.
For the Thakali community, festivals are about ancestors, family and long shared meals.
Trekking groups, family celebrations and office teams all end up in Thamel. Here is how to make the dinner easy.
In the dry fields of Mustang, buckwheat grows where little else will. Thakali cooks have turned it into everything from dhido to crispy snacks.
Some evenings are not for a full meal. They are for small plates, friends and conversation.
Every season in Kathmandu has its own flavours. Here is what to eat and when.
Smoky, chewy and full of spice, chyangra sukuti is one of the great tastes of the Himalaya. It is also seasonal.
For two weeks every autumn, Nepal travels home, puts on tika and eats together. Here is what is on the table.
Most stomach trouble in Nepal is avoidable. These simple habits will help you eat well and stay well.
Before the main meal there are snacks, and in Nepal they are often bold, spicy and made for sharing.
You do not have to eat with your hands in a Nepali restaurant. But if you want to try, here is how.
Some Nepali dishes are fiery. Many are not. Here is how to eat well whatever your spice level.
In a Thakali set, ghee is not a garnish. It is the finishing touch that ties everything together.
Momo are Kathmandu’s favourite snack. Here is how to choose between the four main styles and which filling to pick.
For centuries, salt from Tibet moved south through the Kali Gandaki valley. The people who managed that trade also became some of Nepal’s best cooks.
Tangy, hot and full of character, achar is the small spoonful that wakes up the whole plate.
Before rice reached the high villages, there was dhido. Here is how this simple, filling staple is made and why it is having a revival.
Once a year, kitchens across Nepal fill with the smell of sprouted beans. Here is the story of kwati.
Walk through Jomsom, Marpha and Tukuche and you are walking through the heartland of Thakali cooking. Here is what to expect on your plate.
Thakali cooking is built on lentils, grains and greens, which makes it one of the easiest Nepali cuisines for vegetarians.
A pinch of dried leaves, fried in ghee for a few seconds, changes a pot of lentils completely. Meet jimbu.
Thamel has dozens of places selling dal bhat. A handful serve real Thakali khana. Here is how to tell them apart.
Sour, savoury and a little funky, gundruk is one of the oldest flavours in Nepali food. Here is how it is made and how to eat it.
When the afternoon rain rolls over Thamel, Kathmandu eats differently. Here are the warm dishes that get people through monsoon.
Every Thakali set is dal bhat, but not every dal bhat is a Thakali set. Here is what sets the Thakali version apart.
Rice, dal, greens, pickles and curry on one brass or steel plate. Here is what each part of a Thakali set is, and why Nepalis travel across town for a good one.
Why the achar, greens and small accompaniments matter as much as the rice, dal and curry.
How one plate of Thakali khana carries the identity of the mountains, right here in Thamel.
An introduction to Thulo Thakali for anyone searching for authentic Nepali food in Kathmandu.