Gundruk is one of those foods that tells you a lot about where it comes from. It is leafy greens, usually from mustard, radish or cauliflower plants, that have been fermented and then dried. The result keeps for months and tastes sour, savoury and slightly smoky.
How gundruk is made
The traditional method is simple and depends on patience.
- Fresh leaves are wilted in the sun for a day or two.
- They are bruised or shredded and packed tightly into a jar or clay pot.
- The container is sealed and left somewhere warm for one to two weeks while the leaves ferment.
- The fermented leaves are taken out and dried in the sun until crisp.
Families often make gundruk in autumn and early winter, when there are plenty of leaves left over from the vegetable harvest.
Why fermentation matters in the mountains
In high villages like those of Mustang, fresh vegetables are not available all year. Fermenting and drying greens was a way to keep vegetables on the table through winter. It also created a flavour that many Nepalis now crave even when fresh greens are easy to find.
How it tastes
Expect sourness first, then a deep savoury flavour, a bit like a cross between sauerkraut and dried herbs. On its own it can be a surprise. Next to rich dal, ghee and curry, it makes sense straight away. It cuts through the fat and keeps the meal from feeling heavy.
Ways to eat gundruk
In a Thakali set
A small portion of gundruk sits beside the rice in most Thakali sets. Take a pinch with each mouthful of rice and dal.
Gundruk ko jhol
A thin, tangy soup made with gundruk, tomato, garlic and sometimes soybeans. It is a classic in homes all over Nepal.
Gundruk sadeko
Soaked gundruk tossed with onion, chilli, lemon and mustard oil as a snack. It goes very well with beaten rice.
Trying it at Thulo Thakali
Gundruk is part of every Thulo Thakali set. If you are new to it, try a little on its own first, then mix it in with your dal and rice. Our guide on how to eat Thakali khana explains the rest.
