One of the nicest ways to arrive for dinner in Thamel is on foot from the old city. The walk from Kathmandu Durbar Square takes 25 to 40 minutes without stops, but it is worth giving it an hour or two. Start in the late afternoon, when the light is soft and the bazaars are busiest, and you will reach Thamel just as it lights up.
Start: Kathmandu Durbar Square (Basantapur)
Durbar Square is the old royal heart of the city, with temples, palace courtyards and the Kumari Ghar, home of the living goddess. There is an entry fee for foreign visitors, so keep your ticket with you. Basantapur, the open square at the southern end, is a good place to sit for a few minutes and watch the city go by.
Indra Chowk
Walk north out of the square into Indra Chowk, a busy junction of old trading streets. Look up as well as around: carved wooden windows, small shrines and shops selling shawls, beads and brass.
Asan Tole
Keep heading north-east to Asan, one of the oldest market squares in Kathmandu. This is where the city buys spices, rice, dried fish, vegetables and household goods. It is crowded and loud and completely real. Ask a shopkeeper about the spices if you are curious; with luck you will find timur pepper and jimbu, two flavours you will taste again at dinner.
Thahiti and Kathesimbhu
From Asan, the lanes north lead towards Thahiti, a small square with a stupa at its centre, and, a short detour away, Kathesimbhu, a quiet courtyard stupa that is easy to walk past. Both are good places to pause before the last stretch.
Into Thamel
From Thahiti it is only a few minutes into Thamel. The streets change quickly from bazaar to bookshops, trekking gear and cafes. By now it will be getting dark, and Thamel's lights will be on.
Dinner at the end
Thulo Thakali is on Chaksibari Marg, a few minutes past Thamel Chowk. After a walk like this a Thakali set makes sense: warm dal, rice or dhido, vegetables and a curry, refilled until you are done. If you are walking as a group, book a table before you set off so it is ready when you arrive. Our find us page has a map and walking times from other parts of the city.
Tips for the walk
- Wear comfortable shoes. The lanes are uneven and you will share them with scooters.
- Keep a map handy. Lane names are rarely signposted, so use your phone's map for the turns.
- Go slowly. The joy of this walk is in the small courtyards and shrines, not the distance.
- Avoid the hottest part of the day in summer and the monsoon downpours, which usually come in the afternoon or evening.
If you enjoy walking for food, our food lover's day in Thamel has more ideas for the rest of your stay.
