Thamel is Kathmandu's traveller district, packed with trekking shops, guesthouses and restaurants. It is also within walking distance of the old city, which makes it a great base for a day built around food.
Morning: tea and breakfast
Start slowly with a cup of chiya at a small tea shop. If you want something more filling, many Thamel cafés serve Nepali-style breakfasts as well as Western ones. Read about chiya and Nepali tea culture.
Late morning: walk to Asan and Indra Chowk
Head south from Thamel towards Asan, one of the oldest market squares in Kathmandu. It is crowded, noisy and full of life. Look out for:
- Spice sellers with turmeric, cumin, timur and dried chillies.
- Stalls selling beaten rice, lentils and pulses.
- Fresh vegetables and fruit.
Continue to Indra Chowk and on to Kathmandu Durbar Square if you want some history with your food.
Lunch: a proper Thakali set
By now you will be hungry. Walk back to Thamel for a Thakali set, the meal Nepalis recommend above all others. At Thulo Thakali on Chaksibari Marg, rice, dal and vegetables are refilled. Try the mutton set if you want the full experience, or a dhido set if you want something from the mountains.
Afternoon: rest and a snack
Spend the afternoon in a quiet garden or café. Garden of Dreams, at the edge of Thamel, is a peaceful place to sit. Later, share a plate of momo or some spiced snacks like choila and sadeko.
Evening: small plates and dinner
Thamel comes alive at night. For a relaxed evening, order a spread of small plates to share. Our Twakka Tukka sets were made for this. Finish with khuwa momo.
Practical tips
- Wear comfortable shoes: the old city lanes are uneven.
- Carry water and stick to filtered or bottled water. See our food safety tips.
- Keep small notes for markets and tea shops.
- Reserve your dinner table if you are going out on a busy evening.
