Tihar, also called Deepawali, is Nepal's festival of lights. It follows a few weeks after Dashain, usually in October or November, and lasts five days. Homes are cleaned and decorated, oil lamps and fairy lights are lit, and kitchens get very busy.
The five days
Each day honours someone different:
- Kag Tihar: crows, seen as messengers.
- Kukur Tihar: dogs, who are garlanded and given treats.
- Gai Tihar and Laxmi Puja: cows in the morning, and Laxmi, goddess of wealth, in the evening, when lamps are lit to welcome her.
- Govardhan Puja and Mha Puja: worship of oxen and, for the Newar community, a ritual honouring one's own body and spirit.
- Bhai Tika: sisters bless their brothers with a seven-coloured tika and a garland of makhamali flowers.
Sel roti: the taste of Tihar
The food most Nepalis connect with Tihar is sel roti. It is a ring-shaped bread made from a batter of soaked, ground rice, sugar, ghee and sometimes banana or spices. The batter is poured by hand into hot oil in a circle and fried until golden.
Good sel roti is crisp outside and soft and slightly chewy inside. Families make large batches to share with visitors and to send to relatives. Making the perfect ring takes practice, and many people remember learning it from a grandparent.
Other festival foods
- Fruit and nuts: part of the offerings and the Bhai Tika plate.
- Sweets: laddu, barfi and other milk sweets.
- Khaja spreads: beaten rice, fried snacks and pickles for guests.
- Meat dishes: many families cook a special meal on Bhai Tika.
Tihar in Thamel
During Tihar, Kathmandu glows. Streets are lit up, and groups of children and young people go from house to house singing deusi and bhailo songs. It is a lovely time to walk around Thamel in the evening.
Celebrate with a meal
A festival evening is a good time for a proper sit-down dinner. Try a Thulo Thakali Set, finish with khuwa momo, and reserve a table if you are coming as a family.
